The Difference Between Full Canvas, Half Canvas and Fused
Full canvas suits are considered superior to fused and half canvas suits because they feature a canvas interlining that extends throughout the entire jacket, providing better structure, durability, and a more natural drape. This construction allows the suit to conform to your body over time, enhancing comfort and maintaining a polished appearance. Fused suits use glue for structure, which can lead to stiffness and a shorter lifespan, while half canvas suits offer a compromise with canvas in the chest area only. Mazal & Bracha prides itself on "Full Canvas" constructed garments.
Bespoke -vs- CUSTOm -vs- MADe To Measure
Know The Difference
We cringe every time a person confuses a made to measure suit with a bespoke or custom suit. Not everyone knows the differences between menswear options. Many people today use the word bespoke whenever they speak about a made-to-measure product: from a suit to curtains. This is incorrect. Bespoke, made to measure, and custom suits all have different characteristics that make them unique. Pay attention to the type of pattern used for the garment, the number of fittings, and fabric options when determining which style suit you are getting. We are here so you never have a slip of the tongue again and know the difference.
OFF THE RACK
Firstly, before we dive into custom, tailor made, and bespoke suits, you should understand the term ‘off the rack’. At its most basic, this term means the suit is purchased “as is” from the hangers. They may not be totally one fits all but they have standard sizes. From here, a tailor can then alter the garment so that it fits better. This might mean taking in the pants or letting them out, shortening sleeve lengths and more. Off the rack means you get what you get in terms of the fabric and style of the suit. You can only change minor aspects of the fit.
MADE TO MEASURE
A made to measure suit is made from a basic or standard pattern. From here, a tailor takes your measurements and adapts the pattern to you. You do not have many fabric options for a made to measure suit, potentially just a handful. It is not common for there to be numerous fittings. Once the tailor has your measurements, they get to work. The finished garment should fit your height and basic shape, but it will not be 100% specific to your body. And of course, you can always add things like shoulder pads, accessories, etc. This suit option is more expensive than off the rack options, but much less expensive than a custom suit or bespoke suit.
CUSTOM
Custom suits are made with you in mind. A tailor takes a series of measurements and will create a pattern for you. Everything from the slope of your shoulders and hips to the length of your legs will be considered in creating this custom suit. These suits are more expensive than made-to-measure suits because your specific frame and preferences were used to create the pattern. You can choose the fabric for a custom suit and have many more options than a made to measure suit. Fabric is of course always a deciding factor when it comes to determining the cost of the suit.
BESPOKE
Bespoke suits are the most expensive because they require the most expertise and hand construction. Bespoke is a British word which means “spoken for.” These suits may have more than 1,000 hand stitches just in the lapel. A bespoke suit is fitted so that it hugs the body and never has to be pressed. They are considered the high-end of the suit world
Tailors in the bespoke world have decades of experience. They create a new pattern every single time they make a suit. The expert would never reuse or even revise a previous pattern. The point of a bespoke suit is that it is original and adapts to the specific nuances of the person’s body. The tailor considers everything from the arch of the back and shape of the leg to traditional measurements.
Bespoke tailors have many fittings over the course of two months as the garment is created. The tailor wants to make sure the garment fits the clients vision and that the fit is as precise as possible.
When it comes to fabric, the sky's the limit with a bespoke suit! You can have nearly any type of fabric in any color or pattern. In fact, expert tailors could refer to their fabric selection as a library since they work with so many mills and suppliers. There is no limit on the complexity of a bespoke suit. You can have complex lapels, luxurious linings and more. Bespoke tailors want to create relationships with their clients. After all, you are meeting one on one with the tailor so they can understand your vision for this suit. They are the person cutting the fabric, doing the stitchwork and more. Nothing is outsourced when it comes to a bespoke garment.